We used a band-saw, but this could be done with a jigsaw just as easily (well, almost).
After the CA has been sprayed with accelerator and fully cured (about 30 seconds), the remote/filler plate was sanded with 80-grit until the bumps were diminished. Defects do not need to be fully removed-the panel will be smoothed in later with body filler. More sanding! Do not try to use mechanical sanders like DA sanders or heavy-grit paper here, the plastic is much softer than the CA and it will only ruin the panel.
The dismantled remote was placed in the filler plate and glued in place with the CA. If you have large (1/8" or bigger) gaps, line the backside with tape and let the CA act as a filler. A minimum amount of glue is used; too much glue will mean more sanding, and CA does not sand well.
The next step was to place the filler panel in the console top and glue it in place. Again, tape will help hold it in place and allow the glue to fill the gaps. We mixed up some body filler and carefully spread it around the remote and filler panel. We covered the center with tape to keep the filler off the top surface of the remote. Once the filler was cured, we sanded more with the 80-grit. This is the most important step-a nice, smooth surface is needed to get a professional look.
This project is not just plastic and glue; the remote must be modified to move the IR emitter so that it can reach the sensor. Using a soldering iron and a solder sucker (available for a few dollars at most electronics stores), the IR emitter was de-soldered and removed. The guts of the remote were then reinstalled and the back replaced. We notched the front side of the case so the wires had a place to come out.