J S Designs/Sony Civic Si - How To

The port mouth opening was transferred to MDF, cut and flush-routed, which served as a transition piece between the port and the enclosure.

This piece was glued to the mouth of the port to give it an airtight seal. When sealing the port to the enclosure, it must be airtight and the enclosure cannot have any air leaks. Any leaks will result in loss of output and will prevent the sub from producing low frequencies.

This is the completed slot port prior to molding it into the enclosure. Notice the edges inside and outside are all radiuses and smooth. It's best to do this on a router with some hand sanding. This prevents port noise or whistling sounds as the subs extend their low-frequency response.

The MDF was channeled with a grinder to promote maximum adhesion to the MDF. Always clean the MDF with compressed air over 125 psi to remove any embedded dust or debris.

Body filler was applied and sanded smooth. I applied fiberglass resin to the pieces and then Duraglas and Rage Gold to ensure a proper seal to maintain a full bass reflex response.

I completed one final mockup of the enclosure prior to final assembly. The top plate was glued into place with polyurethane glue and drywall screws, and then fiberglass matting reinforced it from the inside.

A 48" MDF base was cut as a platform for the lower LCD rack. Custom brackets were made using 11/48" steel and bolted to the panel. The panel was then secured to the car with 14mm bolts.

MDF frames were cut to provide elevation support for the upper LCD shelf.

The final MDF frames were glued and bolted together to form a rack for six 6.5-inch LCD displays.

The Sony XVM-F65WL LCDs were chosen for their excellent off-axis display properties. Horseshoe notches were cut into the rack to allow clearance for the video wiring and then the LCDs were bolted into place.